Like a baby that grows up, I’m not longer trigger happy taking photos of the Z during brewing now. So you’ll have to make do with a shot of 605 ready to ferment. 

The brew got off to a rocky start with overflow out the water hole at the front of the step filter. I finally realised I’d places my o-rings around that hole shutting off the natural overflow path between the grain and hop cages. The Zymatic is designed to overflow to that area during a mash. 

After that the brew went perfectly – until I realised I’d put in CHALK instead of Gypsum in the mash. Asking around, general consensus is that it’ll turn out less hoppy, both as a result of leaving out the gypsum and from adding chalk. Damn. Nothing for it but to dry hop the hell out of it then! The sample tastes bitter though, so looks like I don’t have to worry about getting enough IBU utilisation. 

In the end I collected just slightly under 13.5L and got 1.041 which will give an end beer of 4.1% or 4.2% depending on FG. That works out at 68% but then I did restart the main mash twice so may be a bit higher than normal. 

To reduce foam I added 1/2 teaspoon Calcium Chloride (got that right at least) to the mash with the bloody chalk. Also added 4 drops (1 per USG) of antifoam to the keg before mashing and another 4 before chill. I went for 1/2 teaspoon of CC given the starting water was quite high in the keg. 

The result was virtually no foam! A little during the boil – very little – but zero after the chill, though obviously my chill wasn’t as long this time.  Let’s hope it’s repeatable next time when I actually add Gypsum as intended. 

The advanced edits went fine with one exception – the chill step to 76.7 was virtually non-existent when I continued after pause. First thing I did was put the keg in water, then added the whirlpool hops, then tried to get the plastic keg lid on – which was bloody impossible – before restarting. It might work better if I put the keg in water when I restart (and if I could get that keg lid on more easily).

Both Tilts went in the fermentation bucket this time, so I can observe the differences between them. Before going in, temp between the two was consistent so I suspect the red is floating towards the edge of the bucket. 

Gravity-wise they are supposed to be accurate to .002 so they are both in-spec. That said, the 1 point calibration of the red is completely different from last brew which needed a 4 point calibration from 1.028 to 1.024 mid brew to be accurate. I’ll be watching both to see how accurate they remain. 

Brew 5 on the Zymatic is a reworking of a beer that I made while I wasn’t updating this site: 531 New House Pale – a 3.5% Session Pale Ale with no bittering and all late addition hops at 15, 10, 5, 2, flameout, and hopstand/whirlpool atafter reducing the wort temp slightly. Beautiful hop flavour blending the different qualities of Centennial, Citra and Chinook – at a summer quenchable level. 

For the Zymatic version I made some subtle tweaks. I changed the batch from 16L to 14L, set the grain bill with the same % allocations to get 4% (using 64% efficiency) and moved the 2 minute addition to 6 minutes (they say a 5 minute addition on the Z is the same as a 1 minute addition normally).  The Z will be programmed to simulate flameout and hopstand/whirlpool. 

It’s a risky beer for the Z, because I have to make sure I actually extract the bitterness and aroma I need from the hops – which are all late additions (a weakness for the Z) – without making the beer too bitter (it’s only 4% after all). To do that, I’m relying on moving the 2 minute addition to 6 minutes, going for a final IBU value which is about 10% more than I expect to get (to allow for lower Z utilisation) and carefully choosing be temperature for whirlpool. To simulate flameout I’ll run the wort through the hop cages and additional hops in the keg until it reaches 77 degrees, the temperature where bitterness is supposedly no longer extracted. I’ll then whirlpool.   

As usual I modelled the beer in BrewPal – mostly because I can do it on my phone and I have historic brews there, but also because I can try seeing how the beer will turn out at different efficiency levels. And the Zymatic Recipe Crafter is very weak.  

To use BrewPal all I do is choose BIAB, set efficiency, and then set batch size to 14L. I tweak the recipe and write how I will change the Z Advanced Editor in the notes. When I’m finished I enter the same recipe into the Zymatic crafter to get my starting water size and set up the advanced editor. When I’m totally happy, I take screenshots of the advanced editor noting changes I made, then email myself the BrewPal recipe and edit to include details of starting water from the Z crafter etc, and attaching the screenshot. Sounds more complicated than it is in practise – but enables me to craft a beer, experiment with how it will turn out at different efficiency levels, and then keep a solid record. 

For this beer, I’ve chosen 14L as the batch size because leaf absorbs a LOT of wort. The 14L will include 2.5L of ice to help cooling, so the actual Z batch size will be 11.5L.  Experience has shown that using the High Efficiency multi-step mash setting actually calculates the starting water a little under than the amount needed – for a 9.46L batch size that causes foaming as the Z sucks air when water is insufficient. But for all batch sizes it outputs less than the actual batch size. To compensate I’m adding an extra 500ml of water at the beginning. 

A final note: I’m actually expecting this to come out a bit higher gravity because I suspect I’ll either get an efficiency or more than 64% or the Z will undershoot volume (which will be difficult to tell due to the amount of wort the hops absorb).  However I’m also mashing quite high to generate extra body, so any OG increase should be matched with an FG increase. (And in fact even the FG below may be a little aggressive given mash temps).

So, theory explained, here’s the recipe. First two images from BrewPal email, last two from the Z recipe crafter. Given the 11.5L batch size will be topped up, the gravity and IBU calculations will be wrong in the Z crafter. Changes in the advanced editor, including changes to free text, are in yellow – these are explained in the BrewPal notes except for the Boil Hop N labels which were changed because the default Boil Adjunct N is too long for the Z to display. 

Brew day is tomorrow. 

Picobrew published the above checklist for the Zymatic. That got me thinking about three very common issues with the Zymatic. Here they are and how to solve them. 

If you’re getting overflow during mash:

1. Pause/Drain

2. Check Zymatic is level. It’s sensitive. 

3. Take out step filter and then remove, clean, reinsert the 4 black stoppers (wipe the area around it before you do). If you have high temp keg lube, that can help the seal.

4. Check the out pipe at the bottom of the step filter for blockages

5. Disassemble the grey ball lock and clean

6. Disassemble the black keg post and clean

7. When you put back in the step filter, make sure there’s a keg o-ring (I use 2 on top of each other) between the top grain filter and the top of the step filter. Make sure the o-ring is not situated around the lid’s holes. In particular there are 3 holes at the front of the step filter, one large and two small – make sure the large hole is not inside the o-ring otherwise you’ll get overflow out that hole. 

8. Either continue mash to exit brew and restart

If you’re getting foaming during mash (this will start to come out the hole in the step filter):

1. This can occur from too little water. Check you added the right amount of water (there are two figures in the recipe crafter – use the larger)

2. Even if you did add the right amount of water, the HE mash in particular can sometimes have the volume a little low. Add 500ml to the keg and see if that stops it. 

3. Make sure that you’re not using RO water without appropriate additions. 

4. Adding 1 drops of antifoam to the mash water per gallon may help. 

5. A 1/4 – 1/2 teaspoon of Calcium Chloride added to the mash water can help.

Note that mash water gets right to the top of the step filter during the mash and there is some natural foaming – advise above applies if there are leaks or the foam starts to come out the top of the step filter. 

If you’re getting foaming after the mash in the keg during boil and chill:

1. If foam does start coming out the foam trap, make sure from that point to check the spindle isn’t stuck every 10m – otherwise you could have an explosion like I did in 604. 

2. Calcium Chloride added to the mash as above should reduce foam. 

3. Additional 1 drop per gallon of antifoam into the keg before the chill cycle can help. 

4. Make sure that you aren’t running a prolonged chill cycle (45m max is recommended in the advice above), because of the physical properties of the sugars at lower temps you’ll start getting a lot of foaming.

Here it is. 604. Baby Ruin. Maris Otter, Vienna, Carared base. Magnum bittering. Centennial flavour, aroma, whirlpool, dry hopping. 5.1% – sorry, I mean 0.51%. 55 IBU. Exploded over the ceiling while brewing. 

It’s not the best beer I’ve made, but it’s drinkable. There’s something missing which I can’t quite put my finger on. It’s missing a richness. It’s a Disney beer. Relatively shallow and inoffensive. But I want a Warner Brothers beer. A kick-ass Wile E Coyote & Roadrunner of a beer. A beer with a bit more edge. 

It could be that I’m finding the Centennial a bit one dimensional after so long blending multiple hops. 

It could also be that a higher and richer alcohol level would work better with the Centennial, giving some missing depth. 

It could also be that as 60+% of the bittering comes from the Centennial additions, it’s just not giving me the sharp bitterness or citrus bitterness I want. I remember having that experience with Centennial in the past. 

It could also be that the Z isn’t generating the promised IBU. 

I don’t know. But I won’t be making this exact recipe again. 

602 Pale Lager and 603 Pils are both lagering away in the kegerator. They both came out a lot drier and a lot “fruitier” than I expected. The Pale has also come out quite seems devoid of and “pale ale recipe” and dry-hop influence. 

I’m hoping all is not lost and some time lagering will clean up the fruitiness.  I had read that W34/70 is a clean fermenting yeast, but perhaps 15 degrees was a bit too high. On the plus side they have no diacetyl – fermenting 20-ish for the last few points cleaned that up. 

Next beer is currently on hold as I have no space for any more beer until I empty a keg! In the meantime I’ve been looking into the foaming and have come up with a few ideas to try on the next brew. More in a future post. 

Edit: After sampling another beer I made, I’m convinced it’s the lack of other hops to complement the Centennial at this alcohol level. 


My 4th Zymatic brew was a reworking of one of the best beers I ever made and one of my early beers – Hops of Mass Destructions – which was a Ruination IIPA clone. “Baby Ruin,” I named it – being a more sessionable version of HOMD/Ruination – and by geeze did it live up to its name.

It was almost a completely successful brew – but then in the last minute of the chill cycle the Zymatic foam trap exploded shooting the middle spindle into the air (narrowly missing my face) and hot wort onto the ceiling.

Of my brand new house.

The photo above is of the ceiling. The photo below is of the foam trap minus the flying spindle.

I, of course, reached out to Picobrew.

The only thing that I can think of is something was preventing it from venting.

Make sure that you aren’t running a prolonged chill cycle, because of the physical properties of the sugars at lower temps you’ll start getting a lot of foaming.
Something had to have been causing the spindle to stick to the disc and sealing it off there’s no way that enough force should have built up for this to happen, but the keg seal should have popped before it was able to launch it far enough to hit the ceiling.
Unless you’re brewing with dynamite, are you brewing with dynamite?


In my 3 years with the company and hundreds of brews on a Zymatic I’ve never seen, nor even heard about this happening.

So I’m unique. Sometimes it’s good to be unique. Other times. I’d rather pass.

I have a query back to Pico on suggestions to prevent this in the future, but haven’t had a reply back for the last 4 days (which does include the weekend). While their reply is reasonable, I’m amazed such force could build up. The keg seals I have (which the foam trap goes into, like an airlock) are an extremely tight fit so definitely won’t pop to relieve pressure.

I was running a 30m whirlpool through cage and keg hops (the hops being in a 300 micron container) before the ice bath chill – but then plenty of others do that too, so it shouldn’t be an issue.

I’ve come to the conclusion that the chill cycle through the machine is a bad idea – it just creates too much foam. In this brew I actually reduced the duration of the chill cycle by setting target to 30C rather than 19C (the default). So I need to work out what I’m going to do about that. Overnight chill isn’t really an option for an IPA.

In the meantime:

1. Use tap water straight from the tap rather than the water filter to see whether that helps with foam. Apparently the wrong type of water (which is water without minerals) can cause the Z to foam. Our water filter is so weak and needs replacing that I doubt it’s having an affect anyway but worth a try, as is looking more into water chemistry.

2. Add a few drops antifoam to the keg – though I did add to the mash in this case so I don’t see that will help.

3. Check the spindle every 10 minutes during whirlpool and chill – you have to be at the machine anyway during that timeout.

4. Change the way I do whirlpooling. One option would be to do a smaller circulate through the hop cages and then a hop stand with hops in the keg. This would reduce circulation time and may give foam time to settle.

The good news is that the brew seems to be bubbling along nicely and a midweek sample was very promising. I’m monitoring its progress on one of my Tilt Bluetooth hydrometers which makes monitoring the whole fermentation process very addicting indeed!

It’s a rather frustrating period right now as I don’t yet know how any of the beer I’ve made with the Zymatic has turned out! 601 – the first brew – is in bottles carbonating, but is more likely to resemble hopped Buckfast than any beer thanks to my screw up of water additions and barley wine level high FG. 602 and 603 were fermented with lager yeast and after fermenting at 15, are now going through yeast cleanup at room temp before being dryhopped and then layered.

Even though I’m not able to calibrate taste, effectiveness of hop utilisation, or anything about the beers I’ve made – I’m itching to brew another.

And here it is. Based on my old Hops of Mass Destructions (the first beer I made which was really awesome), which was based on Ruination, it will be the first Zymatic brew where I use the “High Efficiency” mash cycle and tinker with the Advanced Editor.

In the Advanced Editor I have upped the mashout from 10m to 20m and slightly increased the drain period. The resulting mash schedule is supposed to get around 73% efficiency – and that’s reflected in the Vital Stats in the pic. Experience of others seems to be closer to 65%.

I’ve also changed the chill cycle to add hopstand/whirlpool and get closer to how I was brewing stove-top.

With a stove-top boil, hops don’t get removed immediately the boil finishes. They remain in contact with the wort – with potentially other hops added for whirlpool.

As standard, after the boil, the Zymatic drains the hop cages. Because of this, Pico recommend one minute/flameout additions are moved to 5 or 7 minutes otherwise they don’t get much contact with wort. Despite that recommendation I still read posts that flavour and aroma isn’t the same with IPA’s.

My modified schedule is designed to address that.

1. Immediately the boil finishes, the hop cages will be drained as usual. The machine will then pause.

2. I’ll take off the keg cosy and foam trap. Inside the keg I’ll put additional hops in a mesh filter. I’ll then put the keg in iced water and start the machine.

3. The machine will recirculate the wort through the keg until temp gets to 170F (76.7C). During this time it’ll be in contact with the hops in the keg.

4. When it gets to 170, I’ll take the keg out the ice water and run a whirlpool for 30m circulating hops through the keg and also the Zymatic hop cages. This will mean that the whirlpool hops and the hops used for the boil will get wort exposure at the ideal temp of 170.

5. After the whirlpool, the keg will go on ice water again and the Z will circulate until temp gets down to 30C. For this step I’ve chosen to circulate through the keg hops only, not the whirlpool hops.

The theory is that this will better simulate a stove-top boil.

Many assume the Zymatic is 100% automatic and that there’s no skill needed. As you can see, that’s not the case – like any setup, you need to know the quirks of the system and adapt to them, and for techniques like getting maximum hop aroma and flavour, it’s all hands on deck.

One thing the Z does do is free up a lot of time in the process. And for me, it’s given me a love of brewing and experimenting again that I haven’t had since I first discovered brewing. I’ve literally got a firework up my ass.

So 604 brew day is pending.

Edit after brewday: If you’re thinking to follow this schedule then read the next post. That’ll probably stop you thinking of following this schedule straightaway! However, for the record, step 13 was completely skipped by the Z. The drain in step 11 bypasses the area which detects temperature so by the time the Z gets to step 13, the temp is already below 76.7 and the Z skips to step 14. Once at step 14, it discovers the true temp of the wort but it’s too late by there. So if I was going to run this again (which I’m not) I’d remove the drain from the end of step 11 and be damn quick restarting after the pause – or something like that.

Woke up and crafted a recipe online over coffee. Got out the grain mill and drill and ground the grain. Weighed the hops at breakfast. Run a quick rinse cycle through the Zymatic. Then attached the keg and started the recipe.


Then in the shower and out for a ride on the bike.  Nice basket, huh?

Back home I had the MacBook Pro pointed at the Z with PhotoBooth over the brew progress webpage.


As the boil progressed I sat in a local soba restaurant and enjoyed Green Tea Soba with Vegetable Tempura while watching the Z move through the hop additions on my phone.


Just after 1 I returned home to start the chill cycle. Whirlpool (which I didn’t do for this Pils), chill, transfer to fermentation vessel, and cleaning are the areas where it’s back to hands on deck.


This time I finished at 4, which was 2 hours 45 minutes. And that time sucks. But at the moment I’m primitive-chilling in iced water – which not only takes forever but extends the cleanup. I’ll work out a way to speed that up. Today I also had to build a blow-off tube to allow me to ferment in keg. And cleaning – well, is there a magic pill for that apart from just being more efficient at it?

Putting things in perspective: I made a beer with less than 3 hours hands on time. And I made two beers in one weekend – I can’t remember the last time when I could have been bothered to do that! It was just too much work. So pretty pleased today!