After finding out that Amylase Enzyme can (probably) solve my stuck FG woes, I wanted to find out about what the other additives are on the Sakeland website. I found this good English list – not all are available on Sakeland, but I want to include the full list here for completeness.

Brewer’s Gypsum – Gypsum is the most popular additive for brewing water. Most often used when brewing British-style beers if your water is soft.

Amylase Enzyme – Amylase enzyme is used to reduce the finishing gravity of beer. Add it at the same time when pitching yeast. The amylase enzyme breaks down some unfermentable sugars into fermentable form. Adding amylase enzyme will result in beer with very light body and higher alcohol content.

Burton Water Salts – Burton water salts are added at the beginning of the boil. They harden that water so that it’s similar to British water. This has the added effect of accentuating bitter hop flavors.

Calcium Chloride – A common water treatment. Dosage rate is up to 1 tablespoon per gallon.

Ascorbic Acid – Ascorbic acid has little effect on flavor unless used in large amounts. Ascorbic acid is usually added in modest amounts for its antioxidant properties. It’s a good natural preservative because it prevents spoilage due to oxidation (stale flavor).

Pectic Enzyme Powder – A more powerful version of pectic enzyme. Pectic enzyme is the only way to clear the permanent haze that some fruits give to beer or wine.

Lactic Acid (88%) – Lactic acid is a gentle acid which is very useful for reducing the pH in mash and sparge water for all-grain brewing. Also added for flavor in recipes for Guinness clones.

Yeast Nutrient – Provides nutrition for proper yeast cell multiplication. Good for adding to wines, considered a necessity for non-grape wines and especially meads.

Yeast Energizer – Should be added in conjunction with yeast nutrient in difficult-to-ferment beverages such as mead and fortified ciders. Also good in non-grape fruit wines.

pH 5.2 Mash Buffer – One teaspoon per 5 gallons is all that’s required to buffer almost any mash to the ideal pH. Will not harm flavor or clarity. Mashing at this ideal pH will increase starch conversion speed and efficiency.

Irish Moss – This wasn’t mentioned in the above site, but I already know this is added to “clear” beer.

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